Postcard from Ireland:
The Tiger at the centre of European History (or thereabouts…)
by Rina Brundu Eustace
“The past year was an exceptional one in Ireland when history placed us at the centre of the enlargement of the European Union, as hosts of that wonderful Day of Welcomes for the 10 new member-states. Now the citizen of the 25 partner states set out on a shared journey to a peaceful and prosperous future. And we in Ireland know more about peace and prosperity today than at any time in our past. This is a successful and achieving nation with a thriving economy and a vibrant culture. It is a growing nation, young, multicultural, a place of opportunity and real hope…” says in her Christmas greeting, the President of the Irish Republic, Mrs Mary McAleese.
The above is true: Ireland has had a central political and diplomatic role when the EU was struggling to reach the agreement that led to the enlargement of its borders. Today’s Ireland is also one of the richest countries in Europe (GDP per capita) and it was only recently that a survey has rated the Emerald Island as having the highest quality of life in the world. Furthermore, in spite of the phisiological slowing down of the Celtic Tiger pace (between 1999 and 2002 the average annual growth rate of the Irish GDP was ca 7.8%, i.e. 4 times that of the other EU countries), the Central Bank of Ireland still predicts a growth rate of 4-5% for 2005.
Walking along the streets of this captivating country it takes little to realise that this is a demographically young nation too. Accordingly, we can’t help noticing the tremendous appeal that Dublin city has on young people from all over the world who have made of it one of their cultural icons. A modern cultural icon, which manages to successfully coexist with the everlasting ferments of the more traditional Dublin mother to the genial production of some among the greatest literary talents of all times; from Oscar Wilde to George Bernard Shaw, from John Millington Synge to James Joyce to name only a few.
Not all that glitters is gold. Not even in post-boom Ireland. Therefore, while it is true that the recent financial earthquake has accelerated the transformation of this land of chronic emigration into a land of “opportunity and real hope”, it's also correct to say that the same economic revolution was not accompanied by a process of renewal of the Irish society. This appears more so when, focusing on the politic scenario, we can ascertain that there has not been a renovation of the Irish political class, neither in terms of a desirable alternation of the different parties' coalitions at ruling the Country, nor in terms of an effective change of leadership within those same parties. As a consequence of the status quo, to the eyes of the pre and post-boom man of the street, the political establishment continues to appear as a monolithic chaste inevitably corrupt and as distant from everyday problems as any far away galaxy. More specifically the intrusion of Politics into real life matters is often seen as a disease which one has to learn to live with knowing that one is not allowed to live without.
The political standstill, whose main consequence is the systematic inability to cut cleanly away from the many long-lasting patronage connections, is also the responsible agent at the origin of the partial failure of the process of transformation of Ireland into a modern European country tout court. Another key factor is the infrastructural disaster in which this beautiful country finds itself. Think of the third world road system, think of the obscure transport legislation (Ireland is the only EU country where a learner driver is allowed to drive by himself/herself prior to having obtained a full driving licence and Ireland is the only EU country where an applicant, who failed his/her driving test, is legally allowed to drive away), think of the obsolete railway system as well as of the many open issues related to internal and external mobility. And that's not all.
Among unending controversies, another year has almost gone by. The establishment sends its season greetings to the nation and congratulates itself. Meanwhile, the alienated man of the street, indifferent to the fact that a Healey & Baker’s survey saw Grafton Street ranking number 13 among the world dearest streets, rushes towards the most elegant street in Dublin determined to spend it all (his salary, of course!).
It is then when we are walking along this legendary Dublin Street, when we stare in disbelief at its shops’ glittering windows, when we listen to its remarkable sounds, when we smell its exotic fragrances, when we come to fully appreciate its unique atmosphere, that we are more likely to clearly visualise the many contradictions that nowadays are at the very centre of this nation’s “vibrant” soul. Whatever Ireland we have pictured in our mind after reading these lines, whatever Ireland we have experienced by walking along its grassy wet fields. Both images possibly conveying the impression that, had not been destiny to push the relaxed Irish people of the new millennia “at the centre” of European History, they would have done very little to reach the limelight. Cui prodest?
Dublin 26/12/2004
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